Evening Express, 6th March 2009 by Lynn Kernan
THERE is a fine balance to be struck at any restaurant between over-enthusiastic waiting staff and servers who linger in the corner almost willing you not to catch their eye.
And The Stage Door has it spot on. In fact, the staff could teach a masterclass in good service, and our waitress gave great tips on the food and wine without encroaching on us.
A pal and I headed to the North Silver Street restaurant for a mammoth catch-up and were pleasantly surprised to find the eatery busy but not overcrowded.
Chillied olives and bread were served to nibble on while we perused the menu packed full of Scottish favourites, like venison and salmon.
Diners can choose from the a la carte or special theatrical banquet menu. Most of our favourite choices were on the set selection, which cost £18.90 for three courses, so we opted for this menu.
And our waitress pointed us towards a bottle of fresh but dry white wine (£13.50).
My dining partner chose a fruity starter of watermelon with feta and a yoghurt mint dressing.
The dish was fresh and juicy and, despite the unusual combo, the fruit and cheese set each other off.
I went for the grilled mackerel, a tasty portion of smoky fish set on top of a potato salad with a hint of horseradish heat – delicious.
My pal decided on the chicken supreme main course. Two rounds of tender poultry were served on a bed of savoy cabbage and crispy bacon, with a rich gravy. I managed to sneak a mouthful before my friend polished off the lot – and the flavour combinations were perfection.
I went for the vegetarian option, a field mushroom and blue cheese risotto. Our friendly waitress assured me the dish was not too heavy on strong cheese and she was spot on. It was heady with earthy flavours, and creamy without being too sickly.
We were tempted to call it a day at two courses but could not resist the tasty-sounding puds.
I opted for the cheesecake with a winter berry coulis. The base was sweet and crunchy with a tangy, creamy filling on top.
My friend went for an Italian choice, the lemon and almond torta della nonna, which also got the thumbs up.
An espresso with sweet chunks of tablet (£1.95) finished off the dinner, which came to a total of around £55.
Many people use The Stage Door as a pre-theatre stop but I would also recommend it as the main event – the food and the service deserved a standing ovation.